![]() I have used plastic spacers but would prefer to have the device resting against the finished surface rather than pushing against the box. Had I used gem/switch boxes, I'd be enjoying the same advantage, at the cost of box volume. The original phenolic boxes from the 1960s had the screw threads mounted outboard, allowing even a sloppy drywall edge to reach the device. Even with perfect drywall cuts, the overlap would be at best less under 1/8". I thought all was good until I test fit a device and found that the drywall ears barely touch the drywall at all! With multi-gang boxes it appears that even a perfect fit would result in only very marginal contact with the wallboard (see second photo). ![]() (Without any clearance the board binds at the base of the mud ring due to the radius.) This gives be about 1/8" to maneuver the sheetrock. I measured the coordinates to cut holes to clear the base of the mud ring projection, which has a radius due to the drawn steel construction, with about 1/8" total clearance. Standard drawn steel mud rings are tapered, though, with a radius at the base, so I have to cut a bit larger to allow the drywall to sit flat. Generally I leave about 1/8" clearance or less. To cut holes around boxes, I measured carefully and cut in the garage with an oscillating tool which produces nice, clean cuts. In a few spots I bumped them up a size to account for extra recess or used adjustable ones. ![]() I'm about half done.įor the most part I'm using mud rings that match the drywall depth, giving about 1/8" recess (due to the screws) which is well within NEC allowance. The rough-in passed no problem, and I've been chipping away at hanging the drywall. I rewired most of my home with 4" square boxes with mud rings.
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